With all the heavy topics we’ve been covering lately, it’s definitely time for a light post. Um, thematically, that is.
For awhile I was tortured by brisket. Not as in heartburn, but in trying to figure out how it became a Jewish food. I posted it on Facebook, with not much info forthcoming. From there I wondered about rugelach, knishes, and matza ball soup. So I hereby present to you what I have learned. Turns out some Jewish food is seriously, spiritually Jewish; some peripherally Jewish; and some barely Jewish. Note: this list is specific to Ashkenazic eating, since it’s what I know. I’d love your input on Sephardic foods. Here’s what I know, in reverse order of Jewishness:
The Barely Jewish
1. Pickles
What’s up with the ubiquitous Kosher Pickle? Turns out that pickling your food was a highly common practice in Eastern Europe, by Jews and non-Jews alike. But Jews discovered a great use for the pickled cucumber and imported it to the shores of NY marketed in just that way: as a palate cleanser while eating the highly tasty (and fatty) cuts of deli meats they favored. As such, the Jewish/”kosher” pickle became a fixture on the Lower East Side, to the point where Heinz made the marketing decision to brand their pickles kosher so they’d sell (even though pretty much all pickles are kosher).
2. Knish
Sorry, folks, there’s nothing Jewish about a knish. It’s a Russian food that Jews – once again – imported, popularized, and marketed on the street corners of the Lower East Side. And boy, is it good.
3. Rugelach
I could find absolutely no info about how rugelach became a Jewish food. Ah, well. I still highly recommend them. Especially the ones from the shuk in Jerusalem, warm and fresh out of the oven…mmmmm. But I digress.
4. Hummus, pita, falafel
Speaking of Israel, I am equally sorry to inform you that hummus, pita, and falafel are not Jewish at all. More middle-Eastern. More Lebanese, actually. But go ahead and indulge, if it makes you happy.
The Peripherally Jewish
1. Mandelbroit
I am going to out this Jewish food right here, right now. For those of you that haven’t yet noticed, mandelbroit is nothing more or less than Italian biscotti. Sorry! I know, it’s like the end of the Wizard of Oz. Turns out Jewish travelers from Eastern Europe went traveling and discovered this pastry in Italy. They immediately sniffed out the Jewish benefits: one, it was made without butter – and hence, was pareve – a big perk in kosher dining, especially for special occasions such as Shabbat and holidays when meat or chicken were usually served. Secondly, and this I’m making up, they last forever. Because, actually, they’re stale to begin with. So they brought it back to the shtetl, called it “almond bread” – or mandelbroit in Yiddish. Voila! A Jewish pastry is born.
2. Farfel
This is a pasta, not dissimilar to couscous, that you will routinely find in the kosher aisle of your local grocery store. It became customary to eat this with Shabbat dinner, since its name is similar to the Yiddish “farfallen,” which means “it’s over with, it’s fallen already.” This was to remind ourselves that once Shabbat begins, the problems, decisions, and stresses of the week are to fall away.
3. Matza ball soup
Ah, that fixture of Jewish cooking. First let’s talk about the matza balls. Clearly, this custom began on Passover, when we were looking for just about anything that could be prepped with that bane of Jewish eating: the matza (also to be inexplicably found in your local grocery kosher aisle year-round, possibly due it’s always/never getting stale…see mandelbroit). In any event, matza balls must’ve been such a hit and as such spread (no pun intended) to the rest of the year’s menu. What about the soup it is featured in? Let’s call it what it is: chicken soup. It’s obvious what’s Jewish about chicken soup: chicken is kosher, so let’s start there. Many Jews in Eastern Europe could not afford meat, but it didn’t take much in the way of finances or property to buy some chickens and let’s face it, soup is the best method to make a little go a long way. Hence, chicken soup: a Jewish staple, and the perfect backdrop to those fluffy matza balls, also called by the Yiddish kneidlach (literally, “little kneaded things”).
4. Brisket, pastrami, and the Jewish deli
Brisket IS Jewish, after all. Here’s why: it turns out that not all cuts of beef are kosher. Jews don’t eat the hindquarters of the animal due to the Biblical story of Jacob wrestling with the angel of Esau (yes, Jews believe in angels) and his thigh being dislocated in the process. Thus, states the Torah, a Jew is not to partake of the animal’s hindquarter. Brisket is from the front of the animal and as such is kosher (some are more kosher than others, cough, cough).
Pastrami on rye – Jewish? Well, pastroma
is a Romanian/Yiddish word for salted brisket cuts – and the Jews,
again, imported and popularized this cut of meat. They also changed the
name to “pastrami” to be similar to the Italian “salami.” What was
Jewish about it? It was from a kosher animal, and a kosher cut, to
boot. Why did Jews keep delis in the first place? There were some
kinds of foods (in the technologically simpler age) that one could buy
universally – fish, baked goods, produce – but kosher meat was not one
of them. The Jews always had to manage that one themselves. Hence,
Jews opened delis to provide their own meat, and it quickly became the
equivalent of the Irish pub: a place where Jews could gather, talk
Jewish talk, catch up on Jewish news, and just hang out and be Jewish.
To this day, the “Jewish deli” is a fixture – but make sure your
kosher-style deli is not serving you ham (which is neither kosher nor
kosher-style). As for rye, I have no idea.
5. Bagels and lox
Bagels were also a regionally Eastern European food, but became popular among the Jews for Saturday night consumption. It was a religious tradition to cook something new for Saturday night, pursuant to the belief that an “extra soul” was given to us for Shabbat, and departed on Saturday night, and thus, both to “console” ourselves on its departure, and to “escort out” its presence, a new food was cooked and eaten. Bagels may have become popular because it’s quicker than bread (if you prep the dough prior to Shabbat). And maybe the extras were readily available for Sunday morning – hence Sunday morning bagels! As for lox – again, the Jews of Eastern Europe discovered this from the Scandinavians, and considering it (and herring) came from kosher varieties of fish (salmon, carp), it instantly became a favorite. The way it was prepared was also ideal, since it didn’t need refrigeration. Some unknown person capped it off with a shmear of cream cheese, the immigrants made it famous in New York, and lo and behold, the bagel became synonymous with the Jew. Frighteningly, if you google bagels and Jews, expect to be hit with a boatload of virulently anti-semitic literature. It’s that iconic.
The Super Jewish
1. Kugel
Kugel is a really, really good food. In High German it means “round things.” It started as kneaded dumplings and eventually morphed into the baked [insert insufficient translation here, such as pudding and casserole]. Word has it that it is similar to the Hebrew “k’igul” which means “like a circle,” and was intended to replicate the round manna (which is described in Torah sources as “round like a coriander seed”) which we celebrate on Shabbat. Hence, its centrality on Shabbat and holidays (and random Tuesdays when we’re in the mood…just sayin’). Why potato kugel specifically? No special reason other than… it was readily available in Eastern Europe. Now you can find recipes for all kinds of avant-garde kugel such as butternut squash, broccoli, strawberry and other random items more traditionally called “dessert.” But that’s the beauty of kugel. Mix it, bake it round, call it a kugel, and it’s a kugel. Check out www.www.joyofkosher.com for lots of awesome kugel ideas and recipes.
2. Gefilte fish
Guess what? The weird jarred stuff in the jelled broth is not up to par. But let’s discuss why it came to be Jewish. In halacha (Jewish law), there is a rule that on Shabbat one of the creative labors we refrain from is “sorting/organizing.” This would apply to eating fish, because you have to sort through the bones to eat the fish. So them Jews came up with an equally creative solution: grind them bones in with the fish, and cook! Ha ha! Then you can pretend there aren’t any bones. Throw in a carrot and onion, and maybe you won’t even notice them! No sorting necessary. Now we got a little smarter: we eliminate the bones entirely, beef it up with a little matza meal/breadcrumbs, and cook. Me, I buy the frozen raw loaves and I actually bake it. It’s goooooood. And very halacha-compliant. Bon appetit.
3. Braided challah
What makes challah challah? The braiding, of course. A braid has many spiritually significant themes. Here’s one, lifted from aish.com: Part of the preparation for the Shabbat is engaging in melacha,
creative activity. Braiding is creative activity. The braid is a shape
that does not appear in nature. (Ficus trees are hand-braided.) It is a
shape that is made by humans and it is representative of the human
ability to manipulate the raw material of the world. Braiding the
challah strands helps us harness our creative capacities for the purpose
of observing the Shabbat. I love that.
4. And finally, stuffed cabbage and kreplach
While these foods aren’t inherently Jewy, but merely a regional favorite in Eastern Europe among Jews and non-Jews alike, they were incorporated into Jewish eating on special occasions such as Yom Kippur pre-fast meal; Purim dinner; and Simchat Torah, due to their “wrapped” construction. This was significant as it symbolized God’s hidden and concealed plan on those spiritual days.
What Jewish foods are your favorites? Do you know what’s Jewish about them? Most importantly, are you hungry yet?
Related posts: Read about cholent!
You forgot cholent! And what about hamentashen? The shape of Haman's hat aside they were originally called "mahn" Tashen, mahn are poppy seeds -because Esther ate only seeds and nuts in the palace to keep kosher.
Ah! I just linked my cholent post after the original post – thanks for reminding me! And thanks for the hamentasch addition 🙂
I loved this post it's really so informative. We just think things are Jewish without giving it much thought. And yes, you made me very hungry!
xo
Sharon
Thanks, Sharon! Always love hearing from you. Go eat something yummy. Think of me.
Holodets aka ptcha! Which isn't only Jewish. More Eastern European. But delicious nonetheless.
I believe you…. but I've never dared taste it!
You really make all your kugels round? I thought people usually made kugels rectangular because that's the shape of most of their pans.
Most of the time I do, although not for any Jewish reason – it's because the 9" or 8" round is usually just the right size for me. I'm not sure if there are any communities that are particular about that anymore – although I'd love to hear about it if anyone is.
The Sephardim and Eidot Mizrachi followers of OOTOB are reading this and saying, "None of that is Jewish food!" 😉
Jewish food is food Jews eat, IMHO, and that covers a lot of ground.
Yup – which is why I confessed up front that I'm only writing about Ashkenazic fare since it's what I know. I'd love it if any commenters could add something interesting about Sephardic foods.
Love the comments about challah! Learn something new every day. Doesn't the extra richness (through eggs) also add to its appropriateness as a Shabbat food?
Another feature of kugel is that it reheats well on a blech because it is dense yet dry.
And as for rye bread – unlike white bread, it is always milk-free, hence pareve and a perfect compliment to deli.
I will always be grateful to you for clearing up that mystery!
This is great! I have a few notes to add though…
A) 1. Pickles are called "kosher" because they used kosher salt to create the brine. The larger size of the salt crystals helped create a good environment for the cucumbers to change flavour without becoming too salty – a smaller salt crystal would just be absorbed into the pickle, making salt-cucumbers. Kosher salt is, of course, the salt used in kashering meat, which also needs a larger crystal to draw out the blood without being absorbed and over-salting the meat.
B) 3. Matza ball soup's base, the chicken soup (traditionally) was also an extremely cheap soup to make. It used to be made only from the bones of a chicken, and the parts not fit for consumption (my grandmother-in-law said her mother used to use chicken feet). It was popular with all poor village people because of the economic value. Add leftover chicken parts, hunks of leftover veggies, and you're set!
I've had non-religous or non-Jews ask me why frum Jews always eat chick peas and deli roll. And a TSA representative at an airport asked me what kind of traditional foods we eat. I could only come up with cholent!
Thanks for the great info! Chick peas…good question…
This post made me laugh, because most of the foods you mention are what I grew up with.
The Polish and Jewish cuisine got so entwined over the centuries, that if you go to ANY bakery in Warsaw you'll routinely find rugelach (that will be called rogale – the name comes from the word "rog" -pronounced "roog", that means a horn – because they are shaped like cow's horns) and challah (that will be called "chala"). I think rugelach are a gift from the Polish to the Jewish tradition, and challah is the other way round.
Pickles are a Polish staple too, as is pickled cabbage. First, it goes well with greasy food. Second, pickling was the best way to preserve food for the cold winter months (and basically the only source of vitamin C).
Oh, and I make my kugel square – because that's my pan's shape.
I was about to comment similarly. I lived in Hungary for several years, teaching and working for an international organization. My kids laughed when I told them challah and rugelach are "Jewish" food in the USA bc of common they are there…and turned up their noses at Kugel given the regularity with which it was served in the school cafeteria. And stuffed cabbage…I had been offered stuffed cabbage in about a dozen countries as a "national specialty"…I actually didn't realize it was associated with Jewish cuisine until I moved back to the States.
A somewhat related question. Was challah's shape created to facilitate a spiritual purpose or was meaning adapted to regionally available bread? I have a friend who swears is the former, but I have a hard time believing him…would be pretty cool if he were right though.
I didn't know stuffed cabbage was associated with Jewish cuisine until I read Ruchi's post.
I obviously don't know if challah shape has a spiritual meaning, but in Poland you'd get bread braided in many different forms, mostly for special occasions. The most typical that comes to mind is a braided bread crown. Also, some elaborate braids and shapes made with bread were purely decorative (not meant for eating) – country folk would hang them on the wall as ornaments. The one that seemed the most typical was shaped to look like a rooster.
Actually, Jamie, challah can be any variety of shapes and still be challah. The name "challah" is actually a misnomer because it really means a small piece of the dough that is removed to recall the tithes gives to the priests in Jerusalem. But it's colloquially become a reference to the baked loaves, usually braided. At what point the braiding became customary, I don't know. There's a tradition that God braided Eve's hair on Friday and the braided loaves recall this deeply symbolic act.
Ruchi, I missed the opening paragraph somehow! I do not get a good grade in reading comprehension today!
In any case, I've been lucky to have some good friends from different Jewish communities.
I have a friend who is Bene Israel (from India/Pakistan) and the food is amazing. I have made a few of her mother's recipes. I really like Sev, which is a sweet noodle dish with raisins, almonds and cardamom. And also a fried bread with molasses that looks very weird but is very tasty. It's like pancakes, but with a distinctive flavor. They do a lot more frying that is typical in Ashkenazi cooking, and a lot of the vegetable dishes have either very pungent spices or are sweet, which is unusual to American palates.
I also find Moroccan Jewish cooking to be amazingly good and unique, with really good flavor combinations. I dated a Moroccan Jewish guy and the food I had with his family is some of the best I've ever eaten. Some of the dishes are too complex for me, like cigars, which are a phylo dough and meat combination. Mine just fall apart. Claudia Roden has a few books that provide a good introduction to this type of cuisine. The best Moroccan Jewish dish I had was fish in tomato sauce, but I never had the chance to get the recipe.
I also think the flavors of Persian Jewish food are really appealing. Good salads and rice dishes, in particular. Their deserts tend to be a lot less sweet, from what I have seen.
Unfortunately, my kids want Ashkenazi food or American food, so that's what we eat, mostly. I hope they become more adventurous as they get older.
P.S.–I'm a rectangular kugel maker.
You're forgiven! This is so interesting. Do you know if these foods are particularly Jewish, or just regional favorites?
I have a recipe for Moroccan fish (salmon in tomato sauce) that I got from a Moroccan Jewish friend. If Amy wants it, I am happy to email it to Ruchi for her to forward. (Although I won't get to it until sometime next week.)
From what I've seen in France, where the majority of Jews are Sephardic (and where many Maghreb Arabs live) those mentioned by Amy seem like regional favorites. Though I was told that what differentiates Sephardic foods from the mainstream Maghreb cuisine is a more widespread use of fish. Tunisian Jews make fish couscous, for example, which you won't find in Arabic restaurants.
I'm glad I'm not the only one wondering where the cholent went. Incidentally, I have a recipe for lemon lamb cholent that I got off of the Joy of Kosher site that I've brought to multiple potlucks at which I was the only Jew, and people rave about it. They'd never heard of cholent in their lives, incidentally. A shame, because I think cholent is the way to go if it's cold and you have a crockpot. Second only to matzo ball soup, IMHO.
Lemon lamb cholent definitely sound Sephardic to me. I wonder.
There's an "Encyclopedia of Jewish Food": http://books.google.co.il/books?id=ojc4Uker_V0C&printsec=frontcover&dq=encyclopedia+of+jewish+food&hl=en&sa=X&ei=0leWUPKAK8Wa1AWZ-oHIBQ&redir_esc=y
Looks interesting, and it even includes recipes. Some of the info from the back cover:
The Pilgrims learned to make baked beans from Sephardim in Holland (I think cholent, but that page isn't fully available online).
European citrus production developed from the Jews' need for etrogim.
Potato latkes only became a prominent Jewish food around 1850 and derive from Italian cheese pancakes.
The citrus thing is totally fascinating!! And the beans!
I taught a Jewish Thought and Culture class as a general education survey course at a University. My unit on Jewish food included an article that went through a few different definitions of "Jewish Food" – one take was that it was whatever Jews ate. An intermediate explanation was that Jewish food was local food adapted to kashrut, and the most restrictive one was that Jewish food was just matza and cholent, since they are adaptations to halachah.
Interesting! I'd include gefilte fish in that category too.
Italian Sephardi Jew here. My nona's recipe for flourless chocolate walnut torte, steamed asparagus, matza/spinach mima. I didn't have my first kugel til I was 18.
I've heard that gefilte fish is the product of the ever-inventive balabusta of the shtetl who was determined to serve fish to her entire household in honor of shabbos. she took that small amount of fish she could afford on a very tight budget, ground it up, added fillers, and then stuffed it back inside the fish skin (gefilte means "stuffed")
kugels were originally round, having been prepared in a pot on top of the stove, as private households didn't have their own ovens. I myself have seen such a kugel cooked, then flipped over midway in the cooking process.
Sorry, but I don't think there's anything particularly Jewish about braided egg bread. I'll never forget walking into the house of a non-Jewish, Swiss friend and nearly falling over in shock when I saw a three-foot long challah on her table. When I asked her what it was doing there, she looked at me like I was crazy and said, "what, you don't like bread? This is what we eat back home!" So the justifications for six strands, and certainly the use of two challot, may be Jewish, but the recipe isn't at all.
swiss braided egg bread?!!! how astonishing!
Yes, they eat it on Sunday mornings–which is the beginning of their Sabbath. Not with poppy seeds though.